Travel
FALL FOR THE BIG APPLE!
09.08.11
Review by Lee Healy
The full-throttle energy of New York City in fall (especially during Fashion Week) makes it the perfect time to explore the Big Apple. Head south on the island of Manhattan and discover the eclectic vibes of the fabled neighborhoods of Greenwich Village, SoHo and Gramercy. Be prepared to fall in love with the spirited hotels, world-class dining, and a cool, creative art scene that is unique to the city.
WHERE TO STAY
The East Village’s Cooper Square Hotel is cosmopolitan, contemporary and eminently comfortable. The 21-story tower soars with the aerodynamic lines of a sail ship while the interior emotes a Zen-like simplicity with wood, black slate and sleek chrome. Wall-to-wall windows in our corner room revealed a panoramic cityscape. We loved the Italian bed linens, piles of plush towels, and the exclusive bath amenities of the hotel’s signature scent, Wanderlust. Thoughtful touches near the lobby include a self-serve bar with coffee in the morning; carafes of iced citrus water and herbed mint tea in the day and complimentary wine at night. The hotel has recently opened The Trilby, which is a cozy, secluded restaurant-bar serving European-inspired comfort food.
Possibly New York City’s best location, straddling midtown and Greenwich Village, is the oasis of Gramercy Park, a unique sanctuary of old New York and home to the distinctive Gramercy Park Hotel. The first sign of the property’s whimsy and bohemian character is the pervasive, woodsy scent encountered as you enter. Cade 26, a signature candle with tones of sandalwood, cedar, and patchouli, was created exclusively for the hotel by Le Labo. In the lobby, the eclectic design by Julian Schnabel showcases a massive, hand-carved Italian fireplace, a stunning Venetian chandelier, century-old furnishings and red velvet. This moody, sensual ambiance permeates GPH. The hotel boasts an outstanding collection of contemporary art, including works by Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Richard Prince, and Damien Hirst. Take a peek by the lobby restrooms and discover a small photo gallery of Studio 54’s most celebrated patrons.
The spacious guest rooms have a vivid Renaissance color palette with imported hand-tufted rugs, rose velvet drapery and mahogany wooden blinds. Luxurious bedding on a California King bed encourages a restful night’s sleep. Check out the unusual English drinking cabinet with fine spirits and Victorian-inspired cut crystal stemware. Frette robes, along with Davines Momo and Mario Badesc toiletries, are found in the large bathrooms.
Being a guest here has its privileges, including access to the private Gramercy Park, and after 10 p.m., entry into the sexy Rose Bar (make a reservation with the concierge earlier in the day). Illuminated by candlelight, The Rose Bar is a stunning escape for creative cocktails, a DJ playlist worthy of any international hot spot, and a custom pool table—red of course. Prefer al fresco? The Gramercy Terrace, -- an indoor-outdoor space with a retractable roof -- serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. It also has an intimate bar manned by friendly barkeeps and a fabulous view of the Chrysler and Met Life buildings
Danny Meyer's immensely popular restaurant, Maialino (the little pig) is located right off the hotel’s lobby. This comfortable Roman-style trattoria is open all day and features a salumi, cheese and antipasto station; freshly made pastries and breads and a coffee and wine bar. For Sunday brunch, we tucked into savory eggs Amatriciana, roasted rosemary potatoes and perfectly-executed French press coffee.
Cooper Square Hotel, 25 Cooper Square, New York, NY 10003, 888-251-7979.
Gramercy Park Hotel, 2 Lexington Avenue, New York NY 10010, 866-784-1300.
DINING SCENE
Long before Mozza, the Batali-Bastianich group worked their magic in New York. You know you’re in the City that Never Sleeps when the earliest reservation available at Babbo is 11 p.m.! This flagship restaurant located in the East Village has a stellar wine list created by Joe Bastianich with generous by-the-glass pours and attentive service. Two not-to-be missed Mario Batali dishes are the spaghettini with a one-pound lobster and for dessert: delicious sweet corn crema with cornmeal zeppole and blackberries.
Another mega-hit from the duo and Mama Lidia Bastianich is Eataly in the Flatiron District. This impressive emporium is a marketplace, a cooking school and a restaurant with varied counter-bar offerings. Perfect for walk-in traffic, Eataly is where you can find artisanal Italian producers from every region under one roof along with delicious dishes that cover the gamut of a menu. It’s ideal for a casual night of nibbling, but be prepared to wait as Eataly attracts record crowds.
For quick and inexpensive options while in the Village, stop by Pho32. For $7, we enjoyed a generous bowl of aromatic pho. Have a jones for a New York bagel with all the trimmings? Stop by Russ & Daughters in the Bowery and featured on the Food Network’s “Best Thing I Ever Ate.” The family has been cold smoking fish since 1914 and their silky Gaspe Nova salmon, expertly cut to order and served on a hand-rolled and boiled bagel with all natural double-whipped cream cheese, is like no other “bagel and lox” you’ve ever tasted—and worth the splurge.
For foodies, a visit to SoHo should include dining at Keith McNally’s Balthazar. This traditional French bistro is always packed and reservations are a must. What to order? The freshest of oysters on ice, a luscious French onion soup, impeccable steak tartare or sautéed crispy skate. Everything is expertly served by a first rate staff. If you’re in a hurry or need a great salad or sandwich for the plane ride home, stop at Balthazar Bakery around the corner. They’re also known for some of the best baked goods in the city.
Babbo Ristorante, 110 Waverly Place, New York, NY 10011, 212-777-0303.
Eataly, 200 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, 646-398-5100.
Pho 32 & Shabu, 13 Saint Marks Place, New York, NY 10003, 212-777-0606.
Russ + Daughters, 179 East Houston Street, New York, NY 10002, 212-475-4880.
Balthazar, 80 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012, 212-965-1414.
WHAT TO SEE
Sacred Sites in Lower Manhattan
With the tenth anniversary of 9/11, a trip to ground zero and a view of the rebirth underway is an intensely moving experience. This now sacred site is just a short hop on the subway from most points in lower Manhattan. The bustling construction site with huge cranes, hundreds of workers and towering skyscrapers quickly rising will awe you. A memorial plaza has just opened and when the project is complete, five towers, a museum, a security center, and a memorial park will be in place.
Right across the street is the historic St. Paul’s Chapel. Opened in 1766, St. Paul’s is Manhattan's oldest public building in continuous use. This is where George Washington worshiped and 9/11 recovery workers received round-the-clock care. Part of the Episcopal Parish of Trinity Church, St. Paul's is a center for worship and the arts, and a place of pilgrimage for all people. Open to the public daily.
New Museum? New Art!
Founded in 1977, the New Museum www.newmuseum.org is a leading destination for new art and new ideas. Located in the Bowery by Little Italy, New Museum is Manhattan’s only dedicated contemporary art museum. It is respected internationally for the adventurousness and global scope of its curatorial program. Check out Rose II by acclaimed German artist Isa Genzken, a façade sculpture which stands twenty-eight feet tall.
St. Paul’s Chapel, Broadway at Fulton Street, New York, NY, 212-233-4164.
New Museum, 235 Bowery, New York, NY 10002, 212-219-1222.
Lee Healy established Lee Healy Marketing Communications, a public relations-marketing consultancy, in 1998. Based in Newport Beach, California, she specializes in restaurants and luxury lifestyle. Healy was a paying guest at all hotel and dining establishments covered in the review.
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